Monday, November 14, 2016

How to Repair a Damaged Easel - Part 3 of 3 - Sealing the Easel with Clear Polyurethane

Fig.1 Danish 
Oil Rub
By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies:
Nitrile Gloves
Glass bowl
Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane Clear
Paint can opener
Polyester and bristle brush 3-inch

This Light-Duty H-Frame Beechwood Art Easel was assemble, sanded and have two coats of WATCO® Danish Oil applied to this easel. Two final coat of Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane was used to coat the easel. Now it truly look new.

This post shows the four steps to sealing this easel.

Step 1: Fig.1 through fig.6 shows the first choice is not always the right choice. Fig.1 shows the easel with two coats of WATCO® Natural Danish Oil Finish. Fig.2 shows the lead warning on top of the polyurethane can. Fig.3 shows this was the first choice for this project. Minwax Polycrylic protective finish. Its a water soluble polyurethane that has easy clean up and just a sponge brush to finish the job. Fig.4 shows a milky substance and fig.5 shows the stir stick the can. Fig.6 shows the can is unusable and the water soluble mass has gelled together.
Fig.2 Warning
Fig.3 Water soluble
Fig.4 Milky substance
Fig.5 Use stir stick to mix
Fig.6 Unusable
Step 2: Fig.7 through fig.9 shows Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane has dried up pint size can. Fig.7 shows the can has been opened but a layer of polymer is all over the top of the can. Fig.8 shows it must have leaked in the paint cabinet. Fig.9 shows the clear polymer is solid and can not be used. This was my second choice also not usable.
Fig.7 Opening the can
Fig.8 Dried top layer
Fig.9 Solid core unusable
Step 3: Fig.10 through fig.13 show the sealer and tools needed for this job. Fig.10 shows a small new container of Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane. Fig.11 shows a 3-inch Polyester brush that will be used to apply the polyurethane. Fig.12 shows on top of the brush is the paint can opener. It is a lot easier to use than a screwdriver. Fig.13 shows the same gloves to apply the Danish oil will be used again to apply the polyurethane.
Fig.10 New can
Fig.11 New brush
Fig.12 Paint can opener
Fig.13 Protect your hands
Step 4: Fig.14 through fig.17 shows the base and the legs are sealed. Fig.14 shows the base is being covered with clear polyurethane. Fig.15 and fig.16 shows the base is being covered, notice the light sheen on the wood. Fig.17 shows the easel legs are being coated too.
Fig.14 Brush used
Fig.15 Base sides
Fig.16 Front of Base
Fig.17 Mast legs
Step 5: Fig.18 through fig.20 shows the H-frame vertical bars are being brushed on all sides.

Fig.18 H-Frame right
Fig.19 H-Frame left
Fig.20 H-Frame right
Step 6: Fig.21 through fig.24 shows the mast is being brushed and the sides too. The side hold the canvas holder in place. It slide up and down the mast.
Fig.21 Mast Back
Fig.22 Mast Front
Fig.23 Second coat 
Mast front
Fig.24 Mast Edges
 Step 7: Fig.25 and fig.26 shows the top edges of the H-frame are being sealed.
Fig.25 Front H-frame box
Fig.26 Back of H-frame
 Step 8: Fig.9 through fig.29 shows the dried rich gold color from polyurethane.
Fig.27 Mast Finish coat
Fig.28 Left vertical 
and middle of H-frame
Finish coat
Fig.29 Finish coat

Step 9: Fig.30 shows the brush is being cleaned from the Polyurethane.
Fig.30 Cleaning brush
Step 10: Fig.31 and fig.32 the front of thee finished easel. The canvas box was raised to bet the lower areas of the easel.
Fig.31 Front view 
with canvas 
box raised
Fig.32 Front view 
with box in 
normal position

How to Repair a Damaged Easel:

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