Monday, November 14, 2016

How to Repair a Damaged Easel - Part 3 of 3 - Sealing the Easel with Clear Polyurethane

Fig.1 Danish 
Oil Rub
By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies:
Nitrile Gloves
Glass bowl
Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane Clear
Paint can opener
Polyester and bristle brush 3-inch
Tarp

This Light-Duty H-Frame Beechwood Art Easel was assemble, sanded and have two coats of WATCO® Danish Oil applied to this easel. Two final coat of Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane was used to coat the easel. Now it truly look new.

This post shows the four steps to sealing this easel.

Step 1: Fig.1 through fig.6 shows the first choice is not always the right choice. Fig.1 shows the easel with two coats of WATCO® Natural Danish Oil Finish. Fig.2 shows the lead warning on top of the polyurethane can. Fig.3 shows this was the first choice for this project. Minwax Polycrylic protective finish. Its a water soluble polyurethane that has easy clean up and just a sponge brush to finish the job. Fig.4 shows a milky substance and fig.5 shows the stir stick the can. Fig.6 shows the can is unusable and the water soluble mass has gelled together.
Fig.2 Warning
Fig.3 Water soluble
Fig.4 Milky substance
Fig.5 Use stir stick to mix
Fig.6 Unusable
Step 2: Fig.7 through fig.9 shows Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane has dried up pint size can. Fig.7 shows the can has been opened but a layer of polymer is all over the top of the can. Fig.8 shows it must have leaked in the paint cabinet. Fig.9 shows the clear polymer is solid and can not be used. This was my second choice also not usable.
Fig.7 Opening the can
Fig.8 Dried top layer
Fig.9 Solid core unusable
Step 3: Fig.10 through fig.13 show the sealer and tools needed for this job. Fig.10 shows a small new container of Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane. Fig.11 shows a 3-inch Polyester brush that will be used to apply the polyurethane. Fig.12 shows on top of the brush is the paint can opener. It is a lot easier to use than a screwdriver. Fig.13 shows the same gloves to apply the Danish oil will be used again to apply the polyurethane.
Fig.10 New can
Fig.11 New brush
Fig.12 Paint can opener
Fig.13 Protect your hands
Step 4: Fig.14 through fig.17 shows the base and the legs are sealed. Fig.14 shows the base is being covered with clear polyurethane. Fig.15 and fig.16 shows the base is being covered, notice the light sheen on the wood. Fig.17 shows the easel legs are being coated too.
Fig.14 Brush used
Fig.15 Base sides
Fig.16 Front of Base
Fig.17 Mast legs
Step 5: Fig.18 through fig.20 shows the H-frame vertical bars are being brushed on all sides.

Fig.18 H-Frame right
Fig.19 H-Frame left
Fig.20 H-Frame right
Step 6: Fig.21 through fig.24 shows the mast is being brushed and the sides too. The side hold the canvas holder in place. It slide up and down the mast.
Fig.21 Mast Back
Fig.22 Mast Front
Fig.23 Second coat 
Mast front
Fig.24 Mast Edges
 Step 7: Fig.25 and fig.26 shows the top edges of the H-frame are being sealed.
Fig.25 Front H-frame box
Fig.26 Back of H-frame
 Step 8: Fig.9 through fig.29 shows the dried rich gold color from polyurethane.
Fig.27 Mast Finish coat
Fig.28 Left vertical 
and middle of H-frame
Finish coat
Fig.29 Finish coat

Step 9: Fig.30 shows the brush is being cleaned from the Polyurethane.
Fig.30 Cleaning brush
Step 10: Fig.31 and fig.32 the front of thee finished easel. The canvas box was raised to bet the lower areas of the easel.
Fig.31 Front view 
with canvas 
box raised
Fig.32 Front view 
with box in 
normal position

How to Repair a Damaged Easel:



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Note: Light in Dark Artwork assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any Artist projects. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Friday, November 11, 2016

How to Repair a Damaged Easel - Part 2 of 3 - Sealing the Easel with Danish Oil

Fig.1 WATCO®
Danish Oil 
Natural Finish
By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies:
Small paint brush or acid brush
Clean application cloths
Chemical Gloves
Glass bowl
WATCO® Danish Oil Finish - Natural ($18)
Tarp

This Light-Duty H-Frame Beechwood Art Easel was assemble and sanded to remove any flaking lacquer, garage marks, and prior acrylic and oil paint smears. WATCO® Danish Oil Finish Natural oil finish was used to coat the easel. This easel can be purchased for List $267.30 at Dickblick Art Store®. 

This post shows the four steps to sealing this easel.

Step 1: Fig.1 shows WATCO® Danish Oil Finish - Natural finish. Fig.2 shows the gloves that are needed to protect the hands. Fig.3 shows a clean application lint-free cloth. Fig.4 shows an acid brush and a small glass container.
Fig.2 Protect your hands
Fig.3Clean lint-free cloth
Fig.4 Acid brush
and glass bowl

Step 2: Fig.5 through fig.7 shows the first application of the Danish Oil to the raw wood. Fig.5 shows the back end and fig.6 and fig.7 shows the canvas box. There was some spots were the old  lacquer was but the Danish Oil rubbed over these spots with no problem.
Fig.5 Back end

Fig.6 Front 
and canvas box
Fig.7 Front end 
and canvas box
Step 3: Fig.8 show the second coat drying in the garage area. Two coats of WATCO® Danish Oil Finish was applied to the easel.
Fig.8 Easel
Drying from
Second coat

Step 4: Fig.9 and fig.10 shows the easel after it has dried overnight. All the raw wood had two thick layer of oil and the excess was rubbed off with a cloth. Now this easel can be used for painting again.

Fig.9 Back side
Fig.10 Front side
How to Repair a Damaged Easel:


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Note: Light in Dark Artwork assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any Artist projects. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-

Tuesday, November 8, 2016

How to Repair a Damaged Easel - Part 1 of 3 - Sand the Easel Mast and Base

Fig.1 Damaged
Easel

By Gary Boutin

Tools and Supplies:
Extension cords
Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander Corded
Sandpaper  60-grit to 120-grit

This Light-Duty H-Frame Beechwood Art Easel was purchased at a garage sale  with many scratches and paint specks. After it was assembled it was decided to sand all the bad areas that had flaking finish or paint. The sanding process should have been done when the easel was disassemble but when the easel was assemble and under several high intensity work lights, it made it easier to see the damage to the easel. 

This post shows the seven steps on how this H-Frame Beechwood Art Easel was sanded.
 
Step 1: Fig.1 shows the assembled H-Frame Beechwood Art Easel. Fig.2 shows the sanding box which contains a Porter Cable Random Orbital Sander with many hook and loop sanding discs. With this type of sander it is extremely easy to remove more wood than needed. The job must be done carefully.
Fig.2 Sander kit
Fig.3 Porter Cable 
Random Orbital 
Sander
Step 2: Fig.4 and fig.5 shows the type of sanding disk purchased at Home Depot. This package is at 60 grit and remove the damages very fast. Pickup the sander often to check that the wood is not being  removed. Fig.5 shows the holes in the sanding discs, their purpose is to remove the sawdust and not get in the way of the paper. The theory is the more holes the better. Some of these sander pick up the sawdust through these holes and expel it out of the sander.

Fig.4 Six inch wide
60-Grit
Fig.5 Sawdust holes
Step 3: Fig.6 shows the top of the mast that had water mildew. Most of it has been sanded. It will be sanded again before the sealer is applied. Fig.7 shows the rest of the easel mast was sanded from top to bottom and on both sides.

Fig.6 Mast top
Fig.7 Total mast
Step 4: Fig.8 and fig.9 shows the mast has two side forming the H that hold the canvas and both side were sanded.

Fig.8 Left front
Fig.9 Right front
Step 5: Fig.10 and fig.11 shows the front and the back of the base were sanded.
Fig.10 Back of base
Fig.11 Back of Mast and
side of easel base
Step 6: Fig.12 and fig.13 shows the back of the base and the middle bar of the top of the H was sanded. Fig.14 shows the front, back and sides of the latch box that allows the canvas box up and down.

Fig.12 Back of base
Fig.13 Top of H frame
Fig.14 Latch plate 
moves canvas box
Step 7: Fig.15 and fig.17 shows the canvas holder. Fig.16 will only need wax when the sealer has dried. This is a thumbscrew that pushes a plastic onto the mast thus protecting it from the screw.
Fig.15 Canvas Holder
Fig.16 Only was here
Fig.17 Block 
and thumbscrew


How to Repair a Damaged Easel:



  • Cookie Alert: European Union laws requires that you know that this blog uses cookies. If you are concerned about this please click here to see how Google uses this information.

 
Note: Light in Dark Artwork assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any Artist projects. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-