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Fig.1 Danish
Oil Rub |
By Gary Boutin
Tools and Supplies:
Nitrile Gloves
Glass bowl
Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane Clear
Paint can opener
Polyester and bristle brush 3-inch
Tarp
This Light-Duty H-Frame Beechwood Art Easel was assemble, sanded and have two coats of WATCO® Danish Oil applied to this easel. Two final coat of Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane was used to coat the easel. Now it truly look new.
This post shows the four steps to sealing this easel.
Step 1: Fig.1 through
fig.6 shows the first choice is not always the right choice.
Fig.1 shows the easel with two coats of
WATCO® Natural Danish Oil Finish. Fig.2 shows the lead warning on top of the polyurethane can.
Fig.3 shows this was the first choice for this project. Minwax Polycrylic protective finish. Its a water soluble polyurethane that has easy clean up and just a sponge brush to finish the job.
Fig.4 shows a milky substance and
fig.5 shows the stir stick the can.
Fig.6 shows the can is unusable and the water soluble mass has gelled together.
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| Fig.2 Warning |
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| Fig.3 Water soluble |
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| Fig.4 Milky substance |
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| Fig.5 Use stir stick to mix |
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| Fig.6 Unusable |
Step 2: Fig.7 through
fig.9 shows
Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane has dried up pint size can.
Fig.7 shows the can has been opened but a layer of polymer is all over the top of the can.
Fig.8 shows it must have leaked in the paint cabinet.
Fig.9
shows the clear polymer is solid and can not be used. This was my second choice also not usable.
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| Fig.7 Opening the can |
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| Fig.8 Dried top layer |
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| Fig.9 Solid core unusable |
Step 3: Fig.10 through
fig.13 show the sealer and tools needed for this job.
Fig.10 shows a small new container of
Minwax Fast-Drying Clear Polyurethane.
Fig.11 shows a
3-inch Polyester brush that will be used to apply the polyurethane.
Fig.12 shows on top of the brush is the
paint can opener. It is a lot easier to use than a screwdriver.
Fig.13 shows the same
gloves to apply the Danish oil will be used again to apply the polyurethane.
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| Fig.10 New can |
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| Fig.11 New brush |
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| Fig.12 Paint can opener |
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| Fig.13 Protect your hands |
Step 4: Fig.14 through
fig.17 shows the base and the legs are sealed.
Fig.14 shows the base is being covered with clear polyurethane.
Fig.15 and
fig.16 shows the base is being covered, notice the light sheen on the wood.
Fig.17 shows the easel legs are being coated too.
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| Fig.14 Brush used |
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| Fig.15 Base sides |
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| Fig.16 Front of Base |
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| Fig.17 Mast legs |
Step 5: Fig.18 through
fig.20 shows the H-frame vertical bars are being brushed on all sides.
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| Fig.18 H-Frame right |
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| Fig.19 H-Frame left |
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| Fig.20 H-Frame right |
Step 6: Fig.21 through
fig.24 shows the mast is being brushed and the sides too. The side hold the canvas holder in place. It slide up and down the mast.
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| Fig.21 Mast Back |
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| Fig.22 Mast Front |
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Fig.23 Second coat
Mast front |
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| Fig.24 Mast Edges |
Step 7: Fig.25 and
fig.26 shows the top edges of the H-frame are being sealed.
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| Fig.25 Front H-frame box |
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| Fig.26 Back of H-frame |
Step 8: Fig.9 through
fig.29 shows the dried rich gold color from polyurethane.
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| Fig.27 Mast Finish coat |
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Fig.28 Left vertical
and middle of H-frame
Finish coat |
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| Fig.29 Finish coat |
Step 9: Fig.30 shows the brush is being cleaned from the Polyurethane.
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| Fig.30 Cleaning brush |
Step 10: Fig.31 and fig.32 the front of thee finished easel. The canvas box was raised to bet the lower areas of the easel.
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Fig.31 Front view
with canvas
box raised |
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Fig.32 Front view
with box in
normal position |
How to Repair a Damaged Easel:
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Note: Light in Dark Artwork assumes no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any Artist projects. All rights reserved. © Copyright 2011-
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